Q&A with World Cup Route Setter Pierre Broyer

Pierre Broyer, from Paris France, is a passionate climber and route setter who has a decade of setting experience behind him at just 28 years old. He joined us in SLC to set for weekend one of the IFSC World Cup, alongside a talented team of route setters. Afterwards, EP caught up with Pierre to hear his take on the WC and the ins and outs of setting at such a high level competition.

Which event was your first time working with IFSC?
My first experience was the Moscow European Championship in 2020. It was a really unbelievable experience –my first IFSC competition, a selective event for Tokyo, in the middle of the pandemic and discovering Moscow.
It was a really high pressure competition since it was the last ticket to Tokyo.

What is route setting in different countries like for you?
MMMH We can definitely say that most of the time, the competition setters go the same way with some different climbing abilities. Here in Salt Lake some American setters were stronger than the French boys on slab. 😉

What’s unique about setting for World Cup Events compared to others?
Definitely the pressure. Also, in such important events like this, all of us give it our best . It’s a really pleasant experience because the challenge pushes us to go deep in relation to such a short amount of time.
Everything is extreme, you are tired and stressed, boulders are hard, and you cannot make any mistakes. But in the end, you are also extremely happy, grateful and proud when it’s done!!!

How does the SLC World Cup compare to other World Cups you’ve set at?
It’s the first time I set outside. So when I went back home with a tan, everyone asked me where I went on holiday!!!!

What was your favorite moment from the SLC World Cup?
In terms of climbing, it was the Women’s last boulder. Pressure was high between Miho and Brooke, and they delivered a really good fight.

Were there any beta breakers, or surprise sequences that you didn’t expect from a boulder problem at the SLC World Cups?
A few …. Route setters are not god, and semi slabs remind us of this point.

What are some of the moves and challenges you tried to set for the athletes at this comp?
Of course, campus coordination!
It was challenging to try to make this movement on a good level and without any cut. I’m proud the team was able to make it easy and possible. For example, the first movement on W4 Final.

How was setting with our latest holds at the comp? (The Double Bubbles)
The shapes are really good, and the holds are light, which is a good point!!!
We appreciate that you need to be precise on the sloper despite the big size.

Favorite hold types / shapes to set with?
There are good holds in every brand, but as a real fontainebleau climber, mainly slopers!

What’s your mindset when going into a comp to set for some of the world’s best climbers?
First I’m super stressed, then when I arrive at the venue I forget this, and I try to enjoy the experience as much as possible, as a human and setter. This job is so hard that we need to remember to have fun, and it’s probably the best way to deliver a nice product to the climbers.

What’s next for you? What are your plans as a route setter and as a climber?
I’m looking for opportunities to set for the best, so I will try to travel as much as I can next year to meet most of them and keep exploring climbing!

Anything you would like to add?
Thanks Mike, Josh and USA Climbing for this really nice event, Merci Manu, Remi, Akito, Ryan, Emma and Moé for this week.
Setting a World Cup is such a privilege and even more so with a fun and really nice team.

If you missed the comp check out all of the back to back WC action on IFSC’s Youtube channel.

Don’t forget to give Pierre a follow!
@pierrebroyer